Faucet Installation
A faucet installed correctly does not drip, leak, or wobble.
Wes installs faucets with the right connections, new supply lines, and a shutoff check before he leaves.
Kitchen faucet installation
The most-used fixture in the house.
Kitchen faucets wear out. Pull-down sprayer hoses crack. Cartridges go sloppy. Aerators clog with mineral deposits Front Range hard water leaves behind. When repair is not worth the effort, Wes replaces the faucet, checks supply line condition, replaces shutoffs if they are old, and makes sure the mounting is solid.
A kitchen faucet replacement is a good time to address original builder-grade shutoffs that have not moved in twenty years. Valves that seize when you need to shut the water off are a real problem. Schedule the replacement.
Deck configuration is the first thing to settle. Kitchen sinks come drilled for one, two, three, or four holes, and the faucet you pick has to account for every one of them. A single-hole pull-down on a three-hole sink needs a deck plate to cover the extras. A separate side sprayer, a soap dispenser, an air gap for the dishwasher, or a filtered-water tap each claims a hole of its own. Wes counts holes and measures the deck before anything is ordered so you are not discovering a mismatch with the old faucet already off and the water shut down.
Mounting is where a lot of do-it-yourself installs come loose. Modern faucets often use a single threaded stud with a plastic wing nut, and reaching it means working blind behind a garbage disposal or a deep basin. If it is not drawn down evenly the faucet develops a wobble within a year, and the wobble slowly works the supply connections. Wes sets the mounting hardware properly, uses a basin wrench where the access is tight, and checks the faucet for movement by hand before he calls it finished.
- Single-hole and three-hole kitchen installs
- Pull-down and pull-out sprayer setup
- Shutoff valve replacement
- Supply line replacement
- Garbage disposal air gap wiring
- Pot filler installation
- Deck plate and escutcheon fitting
- Touchless and battery-module faucet setup
Bathroom faucet installation
Centerset, widespread, and vessel.
Bathroom faucets come in single-hole, centerset (4-inch), and widespread (8-inch) configurations. The replacement has to match the hole count in the sink deck. Wes measures and confirms before you buy anything.
He also checks the drain assembly. Pop-up drain stoppers wear and benefit from replacement at the same time as the faucet. Most new bathroom faucets ship with a matching pop-up, and setting it while the old one is already out costs almost nothing extra in labor. The lift rod linkage under the sink is a common nuisance point: the clevis strap slips, the stopper stops sealing, and the sink no longer holds water. Wes adjusts that linkage so the stopper actually closes rather than sitting a quarter inch high.
Widespread faucets bring their own wrinkle. The two handles and the spout are separate pieces connected by flexible hoses to a valve body, and each one has to be tightened from underneath the deck. On a stone or quartz vanity top the mounting hardware can bottom out against the thickness of the counter, so the correct extension kit has to be on hand before the job starts. Wes has installed enough widespread sets on granite tops to know which brands supply the deeper hardware and which do not.
Wall-mount faucets are worth calling out separately because they are not a fixture decision, they are a wall decision. The valve body sits inside the framing, the spout projection has to clear the basin rim, and the height has to be set relative to the finished vessel or undermount bowl. That is not something to sort out after the tile is up. If you are planning a bath project, get the faucet chosen before the rough-in is closed. Wes handles both sides of that, which is a genuine advantage of hiring a Master Plumber who is also a licensed General Contractor.
- Centerset and widespread installs
- Pop-up drain stopper replacement
- Vessel sink faucet install
- Wall-mount faucet installation
- Supply line and shutoff replacement
- Drain basket inspection
- Lift rod and clevis adjustment
- Thick-counter extension hardware
Specialty faucets installed right
Bar, utility, outdoor, and pot fillers.
Bar faucets, pot fillers, utility sink faucets, and outdoor hose bibs all have specific installation requirements. Pot fillers need a supply line in the wall behind the stove. Outdoor hose bibs in Colorado need frost-free installation. Wes installs all of these correctly for the application. See our fixture work.
The outdoor side deserves more attention than it usually gets in Colorado. A standard hose bib will hold water in the horizontal section right behind the siding, and when a January night drops well below freezing that trapped water expands and splits the pipe inside the wall. You do not find out until spring, when you open the valve and water pours into the basement. A frost-free sillcock puts the seat twelve inches or so back into the heated envelope of the house so the water drains out every time you shut it off. It only works if it is pitched correctly and if nobody left a hose attached over the winter. Wes sets the pitch and tells you the one habit that ruins them.
Pot fillers and bar faucets get judged on the supply behind them. A pot filler needs a stub-out at the right height on the wall behind the range, blocking to carry the weight of the arm, and a shutoff you can actually reach. A bar faucet on an island usually means the supply and drain come up through cabinetry with limited routing options. Neither of these is a same-day surprise install. They are planned work, and Wes will tell you what the wall has to give up before he quotes it. If the freeze already got you, frozen pipe repair and hose bib repair cover that side of things.
Right supply lines every time
Faucet installation done properly.
A new faucet on old supply lines and seized shutoffs is an incomplete job. Wes replaces supply lines and shutoffs when they are at end of life. You get a complete, tested, functioning fixture.
Testing means more than turning it on. He runs both handles through their full travel, checks the aerator flow, pressurizes the connections and then goes back with a dry hand under every joint a few minutes later, because a slow weep does not show itself in the first thirty seconds. On a pull-down he cycles the sprayer and confirms the counterweight retracts the hose properly, since a hose that hangs is the number one complaint people have about a faucet six months in. Then the cabinet floor gets wiped dry so you have a clean baseline to spot anything later.
Hard water will find a new faucet eventually. Cleaning the aerator once or twice a year takes five minutes and keeps the flow honest. If your whole house is fighting scale, a water softener does more for fixture life than any single faucet upgrade will. Wes is available around the clock, seven days a week. Call (303) 883-9075.
How a call goes
Straight answer, fair price.
You call, we listen.
Tell us what is happening.
We look and diagnose.
No parts quoted before the cause is confirmed.
Straight quote.
You know the cost before we turn a wrench.
We do the work.
Tested before we leave.
Done right.
One master plumber, one point of contact.
Straight answers
Questions about faucet installation.
Can I supply my own faucet?
Yes. Let us know the configuration before you buy so we can confirm it fits your sink. The two things worth checking are the number of holes drilled in your deck and, for a bathroom, the spread between them at four or eight inches. Send a photo from directly above with the old faucet still in place and Wes can usually tell you in a minute whether the one you picked will land.
Should I replace shutoff valves when installing a new faucet?
If the valves are original and have not moved in years, yes. Seized shutoffs in an emergency are a real problem. Old multi-turn compression stops are the usual offenders. Once the packing dries out they either refuse to turn or start weeping the moment they do. Swapping them to quarter-turn ball stops while the cabinet is already open is a small addition to the visit and it makes every future repair easier.
How long does faucet installation take?
One to two hours for a standard kitchen or bath replacement. Widespread bathroom sets take longer because there are three pieces to mount and align. Add time if the old faucet has to be cut off, which happens when the mounting nuts have corroded to the studs. Wes will tell you at the door if he sees something that pushes the job past the normal window.
Do you install vessel sink faucets?
Yes. Vessel faucets have specific height and reach requirements. The spout has to clear the rim of the bowl and land far enough in that water does not splash over the front edge. Vessel bowls sit high, so the faucet is usually a tall single-hole or a wall-mount. Bring the bowl dimensions and Wes will confirm the pairing works before either piece gets installed.
Do you install touchless and smart faucets?
Yes. Those need a power source, either a battery pack strapped under the cabinet or a plug-in transformer, plus a clear spot to mount the solenoid where it will not get bumped by whatever ends up under the sink. The sensor also needs a sensible sight line so it does not trigger every time you reach for the dish soap. Wes sets them up so they behave.
Will a new faucet fix my low water pressure?
Only if the restriction is in the faucet, which does happen when the aerator or the cartridge screens plug with mineral scale. If both hot and cold run weak at every fixture in the house, that is upstream. Old galvanized supply lines choking down with rust and failed pressure-reducing valves are the two most common causes on the Front Range. Wes checks pressure at the hose bib to find out which it is.
Is a permit needed for a faucet install?
Not for a straight replacement in an existing location in any of the jurisdictions Wes works. Where it changes is when a faucet install is part of moving a sink, adding a fixture, or building out a new bath, because then drain and vent work comes into it. Wes holds a Master Plumber license and a General Contractor license, so he pulls what needs pulling and handles the inspection.
Does Wes handle the cabinet and counter side too?
He does. Faucet work sometimes means a sink has to come out, a counter cutout has to be adjusted, or a swollen cabinet floor has to be replaced because a slow leak sat there. Rather than sending you off to find a carpenter, Wes takes care of that under the same job. One person is responsible for it from the supply line to the trim.
Need a faucet installed?
Wes installs it with the right supply lines and working shutoffs.